
The story starts more than
sixteen years ago. In Roodebloem Road, Woodstock. A quaint
street in the ‘back streets’ of Cape Town. Peter
Veldsman, on the doorstep of retiring from an
almost twenty year career in food journalism, was approached
by Mrs. Lorraine van Oudehoven de St. Gerry to start a back
street café for a couple of dyslectic youngsters.
The idea appealed. Emily’s Bistro was created. Short
lived. The youngsters ran away.
If only I had one rand for
every time I had to answer “who is Emily?” Truth
be told; nobody! No romantic tale. Peter wanted a female
name, multi-cultural, within the first five letters of the
alphabet. Turned out not to be that easy. After quite a
search, coming up empty, a friend of ours, Francois du Plessis,
stenciling some silhouettes onto the walls of our first
interior, asked casually “what about Emily”?
That was it! Turned out later to be a good call, but that
is another story. . .
Eight months on and Johan
Odendaal returned from Oslo, Norway, where he
was chef to the South African Ambassador. He joined Emily’s
and then with a total staff of three we started building
a business – Emily’s restaurant. Sylvia cleaned,
Johan cooked and Peter served! We had a seating capacity
of 24 and did what we knew best – South African food,
with a twist. It was the time of the grunge movement manifesting
in Europe as “trash”. We started Afro-Euro trash
culture, at first simplified, but as we grew we realized
the interest amongst visitors to experience the palette
of local flavours. A year later, we had to employ more staff,
but quickly saw that the standard of trained staff was not
up to standard. We decided to formalize The South African
Cookery Club that Peter started in the early eighties. A
“train-your-own” philosophy led to the inception
of the Culinary
Art institute of Africa (CAIA) in 1994. We offer
a three-year restaurant-training course, the first in South
Africa, encapsulating both the kitchen as well as front
of house. First students to complete the course, included
Liezel Roos, Andrew Whelan (our current head chef, yes,
he is almost nine years with us) and Leigh Denny. Those
were the days! We were known as “the backstreet boys”,
ran our funny little shop with merely a door on the street,
a historic King Edward letterbox in the front wall, the
building peeling paint, sun-burnt and aged. The interior
decorated eclectically in seventeen different colours with
modern interpretations of South African food on designer
plates and good glassware, but the rest more bric-a-brac
than couture. A was a destination. Celebrities liked to
“slum it” with us and we were voted as one of
South Africa’s best restaurants on numerous occasions.
During early 2000, the management
of the V&A Waterfront approached us to “pick up
and move” to this prime location. We opened our doors
in the newly built Clock Tower Centre on the 1st of December
2001. The profile of the clientele changed somewhat. Added
to our local following we now had to think tourist market
as well. Once again we had to re-invent ourselves. High-profile
groups, demanding international clients and a changed local
society required a change in style. Emily’s became
the premier destination in Cape Town for South African cuisine.
We also opened a Snack
Bar at the Historic
Clock Tower with a more informal “al fresco”
approach. By this time we received international awards,
recognizing our “proudly South African” roots
and also received the Blazon of the Chaîne des Rotisseurs.
More local awards followed and we were able to travel to
the United States and Europe, visiting old friends and making
new ones. We were well received at some of the world’s
top eateries and built a warm friendship with among others
Monsieur Jean-Claude Vrinat of Taillevent until his untimely
death in January 2008. The great Pierre Gagnaire showed
us a great deal of affection and invited us into his kitchen
in Paris. His staff assisted us in many ways and we obtained
addresses of suppliers we would never have found on our
own. Indeed we realized anew that the brotherhood of great
chefs stretches well beyond our shores.